Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque (Red Mosque)
A striking red-and-white striped mosque in the bustle of Pettah, its candy-cane bands and Indo-Saracenic domes making it one of Colombo's most photographed landmarks.
Construction of the Jami-Ul-Alfar Mosque began in 1908 and was completed the following year, in 1909. It was commissioned by the local Indian Muslim community based in Pettah, who needed a proper space to fulfil their five daily prayers and Friday Jummah. The man behind its design and construction was Habibu Lebbe Saibu Lebbe, an unlettered architect who worked from details and images of Indo-Saracenic buildings supplied by the South Indian traders who commissioned him. The result is a hybrid style all its own, blending native Indo-Islamic and Indian architectural elements with touches of Gothic revival and Neo-classical design.
The mosque was originally built to hold up to 1,500 worshippers, although in its early years only around 500 people would turn up for prayers. What really sets it apart, though, is its look: a striking red-and-white candy-striped two-storey building topped with a clock tower, often compared to the Jamek Mosque in Kuala Lumpur, which was built just a year later, in 1910. Long before Colombo's skyline filled up with other landmarks, sailors sailing into the port are said to have used the mosque as their first point of reference, a kind of unofficial welcome marker for the city.
The mosque stands on Second Cross Street, deep in Pettah's busy trading lanes, where handcarts, shoppers and traffic squeeze past one another all day. Then the red and white stripes appear above the shopfronts and the chaos suddenly feels worth it. It's one of Colombo's oldest mosques and still a busy place of worship.
Visitors of all faiths are welcome outside prayer times, but avoid Friday midday, when the Jummah prayer draws big crowds. Dress modestly, with long trousers or a long skirt and covered shoulders and arms, and women should bring a scarf to cover their hair. Shoes come off at the entrance, and visitors are often shown around by someone from the mosque. Ask before taking photos inside, and if you'd like to give something back, there's usually a donation box, since entry itself is free.
For the classic shot of the whole facade, step back a little way down the street rather than standing at the gate. Afterwards, Wolvendaal Church and the stalls of Pettah Market are within walking distance.
At a glance
- Entry fee: Free, donation welcomed
- Opening hours: Outside prayer times for visitors
- Time needed: 30 minutes
- Best time: Mid-morning, avoiding Friday prayers
How to get there
In the Pettah bazaar district near the Fort railway station.